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Monday, December 15, 2008

Legal Sea Foods

Faneuil Hall, Quincy Market, Cheers, The Commons, The Garden, The Prudential Center, Fenway Park, Tom Brady, clam chowder.

Perhaps Legal Sea Foods---a recently-opened, Boston-based restaurant chain---doesn’t belong in such august company as the aforementioned New England staples, but it’s certainly a welcomed addition to the developing Luckie Street district near Centennial Park.

Conveniently nestled across the street from the Aquarium and adjacent to the Hilton Garden Inn, this chic, vibrant restaurant is already drawing crowds looking to recapture some New England flavor without leaving Atlanta.

In a city with a dearth of exceptional seafood restaurants (though Atlanta Fish Market is a notable exception), Legal Sea Foods may have found a permanent home in Dixie.

Don’t be fooled though. This isn’t a glorified Red Lobster.

In fact, you’ll be hard-pressed to leave without forking over at least $25 per person, excluding drinks, tax, and tip---with only a handful of entrees under $20. Then again, you aren’t coming here to be economical, and the swank surroundings and cozy dining room set the stage for a memorable night out in the heart of Atlanta.

Start out with the clam chowder. This is one of the specialties. If a restaurant can’t do this right, it shouldn’t be within 500 miles of Boston. This one can, however, and superbly, I might add. In fact, I was scraping the microscopic remnants of the delectable cream broth as best I could.

On this night, which was for a birthday celebration, I order the special consisting of 1 ¼ pound lobster, served with the delicious chowder, two sides, and cheesecake.

The lobster I choose is stuffed with shrimp and scallop buttery stuffing. Your mouth is already salivating, isn’t it? Unfortunately, it tastes less remarkable than it sounds. Lobster, by its nature, is somewhat chewy, but this poor crustacean had been obliterated way too long in the boiling pot of water, to the point of being dry and tough.

The two sides, however, were excellent. The cheddar cheese grits are fantastic, not at all resembling a gooey mess which many restaurants fall victim to on occasion. The onion strings, similarly, are fried with the optimal amount of bread crumb coating. They are tasty and delicious.

The birthday boy accepts the waiter’s recommendation and selects the double stuffed baked shrimp. Mouth watering again? This time the restaurant delivers large, savory chunks of seafood heaven, which are clearly one of the best items on the menu. Despite only being four in number, they were massive enough that the birthday boy had to take food home.

Dessert is your prototypical cheesecake---neither noteworthy nor unappetizing---but leaning slightly toward the former than the latter.

True vegans will suffer, though there is one entrée which addresses those individuals by noting “Vegan friendly.” That would be Thai coconut, curry veg box---which comes replete with stir-fried vegetables, cashews, tofu, and brown rice. A few salad appetizers fit the bill as well.

Options abound for the lactose intolerant of the world, including fried clams, swordfish, crab legs, crab cakes, and salmon. There are also three pricey surf and turf selections as well.

Our server was most affable, providing just the right amount of attention without becoming overbearing.

Based on its location and its proximity to major Atlanta tourist attractions, diversity thrives at this restaurant.

I do have to promulgate a big “thumbs down” to the woman I spoke to when I called the restaurant ahead of time to inquire about a special dessert for the birthday boy. Any restaurant, especially during a recession, should be far more accommodating than a patronizingly dismissive, “No, we don’t anything special, but we will write ‘Happy Birthday’” on a plate for you.” Really? How generous. Will you blow out the candles for us, too, if we bring a cake?

But I digress.

Judging from the completely filled dining room on a Saturday night roughly around 7PM, one would have to assume Legal Sea Foods will make it, even during this rough economy. The question is how many of the tourists and locals would keep coming back?

Time will tell.

I wouldn’t necessarily rush back, but I did like Legal Sea Foods enough to recommend it to a few people who crave seafood options in landlocked Atlanta.

Food: B+
Service: B (It would have been an A if a special birthday dessert had been provided like 99% of Atlanta area restaurants do.)
Portions: A-
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: B+
FINAL COMMENT: A worthy addition to the area but avoid the stuffed lobster, and by all means, don’t go for a birthday celebration unless you’re bringing a cake!

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