Pasta da Pulcinella

Have you ever inquired about something, only to wish midway through the ambiguous explanation that you hadn’t done so in the first place?

That is one of my very few complaints about the quaint, charming, cottage-turned- restaurant, Pasta da Pulcinella in Midtown.

Upon arriving at my table, my attention was immediately drawn to the scads of 8 ½ by 14 inch pictures, presumably from a book, that festoon most of the wall space inside this cozy eatery. The pictures resembled “cone-head like” men in various parts of a town from an era long ago.

As my waiter, dressed with a fedora as all of the wait staff is, expounded upon the confounding artwork, I grew immediately disillusioned with the reply. “It’s a book by Giovanni Somebody Somebody showing idealistic life….blah, blah, blah.” As I later found out after tuning him out due to the boredom of the reply, apparently the questioning of the décor of the room is pretty commonplace. Hopefully, others understood the uninspiring explanation better than I did.

Aside from the puzzling pictures, Pasta da Pulcinella is an excellent choice if you are looking for solid Italian cooking that is straightforward and unpretentious. Many of the recipes have graced the menu for over 15 years, and the result is a memorable dining experience that will not massacre your budget.

For starters, you can’t go wrong with the restaurant’s traditional Caesar salad, though surprisingly many eateries manage to botch this. Not here, fortunately.

My first trip I indulged on the ravioli stuffed with lobster and cheese in a champagne cream sauce, which was magnificent.

Another meritorious selection is the ravioli stuffed with chicken and mushrooms in a spicy tomato-basil and cream sauce. I couldn’t determine if I liked this dish or the lobster ravioli better, as the two were both superb. The piquancy of the dish was a pleasant addition to traditional ravioli that one might normally see in an Italian restaurant.

The spinach tagliatelle Bolognese, which I was told is a traditional favorite of the house, is a winner for those who prefer more traditional meat sauce pastas.

Quantity-wise, the most filling dish would have to be the chicken cannelloni. These Italian crepes are filled with spinach, chicken, and ricotta cheese—topped with tomato-basil sauce and a gorgonzola mushroom sauce. My friend, Tre’, who accompanied me on my second visit, was barely able to make a dent in it after the Caesar salad and tasty warm bread. It’s also an outstanding value at $15.

Finish off the evening with a delectable piece of raspberry cheesecake, and it will not be a surprise that the overall praise is effusive for this “blink and you almost miss it” Midtown gem.

With the exception of the surprisingly sizeable cannelloni, portions appear to be substandard at worst and average at best. However, much to my surprise, once you begin to indulge, initial appearances are belied, and I actually reached the precipice of satiety even with my voracious appetite.

Despite its Midtown location, the older, mostly Caucasian clientele resembles more of what you’d expect to see, frankly, in Buckhead, and my guess is they were regular patrons, judging from the banter I witnessed back and forth with the waiters.

Several vegetarian dishes are available, including linguine with tomato, pesto, or garlic cream sauce that is served with mixed vegetables.

I would highly recommend this place, especially as a good first date restaurant, due to its budget friendly prices and pleasing cuisine. Reservations are probably a good idea, due to the relatively small dining room and outdoor patio seating. And speaking of seating—and here’s one opportunity for improvement--the hard backs of the indoor chairs are horribly uncomfortable.

Don’t let that deter you, though. This place is definitely worth the trip, and the food is outstanding!


Dining Category: Casual Dressy to Dressy
Food: A+
Service: A
Portions: B
Entrée Prices: Range from $10-$20 with most around $15
Ambience/Comfort: C+ (Sorry, the chairs are just too hard to be comfortable or else this would be an A.)
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Could use improvement
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A
FINAL COMMENT: Expunge the chairs, and there’s not much to dislike about this place.

Serpas

Perhaps I am dating myself here somewhat, but back in the 1970’s, Carly Simon sparked a mystery when she penned one of her biggest hits, “You’re So Vain.” The song fired an unmistakable salvo at a philandering paramour, presumably of Simon’s. Speculation was rampant for whom the song was written, and theories ran the gamut from former husband James Taylor to Mick Jagger to Warren Beatty.

Well, the Atlanta dining scene has its only little conundrum, albeit not quite as riveting as Simon’s autobiographical rant towards an ex-lover.

Enter Serpas. Is it pronounced SIR’-PUS? Is it SIR-‘PAHZ? Or maybe SIR-‘PUS? No matter who you ask, how many times you inquire, or how convincing the person telling you appears to be---you will likely be as confounded I am as to the truth.

What is unequivocally true, however, is that this restaurant---no matter how you say it---is a magnificent addition to the Atlanta area known as the Old Fourth Ward—just minutes from the King Center.

The staid space, originally a cotton storage factory built in the early 1900’s, is unpretentious and moderately austere. It will not win or be nominated for “Most Romantic Restaurant” in Atlanta. However, my guess is the honor of, “GQ’s One Of The Ten Best New Restaurants in America” is probably infinitely more important to Serpas, the eponymous creation of chef Scott Serpas. Side note: presumably he would know how to pronounce his own name, though his staff apparently does not.

I’ve ventured out to this establishment twice recently, and I have yet to have a meal that was anything less than spectacular. The stuffed chicken breast with goat cheese and basil mashed potatoes is outstanding—an opinion shared by several of my closest friends. Other transcendent dishes include the short ribs, served with a cauliflower cream sauce. Juicy, mouth-watering flavor awaits you. The gigantic pork chop---accompanied with four cheese ravioli, carrots, Vidalia onions, and apple fennel---is a belt buster to be sure---guaranteed to satiate even the most gluttonous in your party.

If you like fish, dive into the crab and mushroom stuffed trout, perched atop of spinach, asparagus, and new potatoes.

Leave your thoughts of boycotting dessert behind for the night and indulge in the delectable cranberry bread pudding, which is utterly sinful. Served warm and with a dollop of ice cream, it’s nirvana in your mouth. Another option is the appetizing fried apple pie, but without a doubt, it pales in comparison to the bread pudding.

You will be hard-pressed to have a bad meal at Serpas, but you also likely will not want to be there for longer than an hour and change. That’s because the metal chairs are some of the most uncomfortable you’ll find anywhere. Bring a pillow to sit on if you are in the company of several slow eaters.

My only other criticism of the place is the infamous “table row” seating in some places. For those unfamiliar with my blog, I reference “table row” when discussing tables for two that are lined up so close together to other adjoining tables that it’s nearly impossible to have a private conversation. Serpas is not as egregious as other restaurants, in that there is a modicum of space between the tables. However, there is certainly room for improvement in distancing to ensure tables for two consist of conversations discernable by only two.

Most any entrée can be adjusted to reduce cheeses and creams for the lactose intolerant, and Serpas also indicates on their menu that vegetarian options are available upon request.

Service, like the décor, is unassuming, unobtrusive and straight-forward. Five minute pedantic lectures on the freshness, preparation methods, and other intricate details of the menu will not have to be endured at Serpas. This is much appreciated, as there is an overabundance of dining establishments in Atlanta that embody this characteristic.

Trust me, you will not walk away hungry or disappointed from this restaurant. Now excuse me while I try to contact Scott Serpas to find out the RIGHT way to say the name of this place.


Dining Category: Casual To Casual Dressy
Food: A+
Service: A
Portions: A-
Entrée Prices: Range from $14-$26 with most around $22
Ambience/Comfort: C (Sorry, the chairs are just too hard to be comfortable)
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A
FINAL COMMENT: In a word—fantastic.

Round Up: The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly

Yes, folks, it has been a while since the last review graced the pages of this blog, and thus, let’s review a multitude of recent restaurant visits in the Atlanta area.

Now one of the questions I’m most often asked is how can I compare, say, Nuevo Laredo Cantina vs. a fine dining establishment? Obviously, it is understood there must be a disparity in terms of the dining experience, and an “A” at one cannot be comparable to an “A” at another.

I couldn’t agree more, and thus, going forward, my reviews will indicate the dining category to clearly delineate an “A” in fine dining vs. an “A” at a casual restaurant.

With that being said, let’s begin my recent tour:

Let’s start with the overhyped---BLT Steak. I cannot seem to ascertain why this is such a ballyhooed restaurant, often mentioned in august company of some of the finest steakhouses in Atlanta.

If you have heard any chatter about this restaurant, chances are you’re familiar with their popovers that are initially brought to the table after ordering. Described as “milk, eggs, flour, salt, and a heap of gruyere cheese” by Meredith Ford Goldman of the “Atlanta Journal Constitution", I’m perplexed at the effusive ravings that these puffs of bread have garnered. Salty cardboard nothingness is the best I can extract from partaking, and that’s being kind.

Strike One.

But this, of course, isn’t why you go to a steakhouse. You go for the mouth-watering USDA Prime decadent beef, and unfortunately, BLT Steak does not deliver there either. I found my steak rather unremarkable actually except the price. It did not provide the inundating flavor I had hoped for, prompting more than the usual shake-shake-shake of the salt bottle.

Strike Two.

The service? Teetering on the precipice of pretentiousness but affable enough to give one pause for being overly critical.

Strike Three. Billy Wagner just recorded another “K.”

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: C (Complete breakdown of rating below)


Next stop---Ra in Midtown. First, accept the fact that this is supposed to be a fun place where many pop in for Happy Hour libations or a quick meal before heading out for a night in Midtown.

The sushi is serviceable, and the chicken teriyaki is both filling and toothsome. By far, though, my favorite item on the menu would be the spicy sesame chicken wings. The sweet and spicy sauce coupled with the succulent glaze accentuate a harmonious crescendo of salinity and sweetness. Absolutely superb!

Keep an eye out for the enticing Happy Hour specials!

A recent poor service experience, however, lowered the overall score of the restaurant, as well as the service grade. When you inquire about the contents of a cocktail, a curt, “It’s described on the drink menu” is not an apropos response.

Dining Category: Casual
Overall Grade: B+ (Complete breakdown of rating below)


Head north on Peachtree for a few miles, and you’ll land at another championed establishment in the form of Restaurant Eugene. This elegant restaurant has received critical praise from dining critics, including a James Beard Award for "2010 Best Chef: Southeast" nomination for Linton Hopkins. Hard to argue when you dig into the pan roasted sockeye salmon. However, here’s my problem--I simply can’t justify paying $36 for a pedestrian in size piece of fish when it is not the best I’ve ever tasted---and it was not.

The lemon cheesecake, however, was superb.

If the measure of a restaurant is whether you would recommend it and hurriedly return, I would do neither with Restaurant Eugene.

Here is what did leave an indelible mark on me. Upon concluding my meal, my friend—who I had not seen in quite some time—and I continued to chat. After about fifteen minutes, the manager on duty (I presume) offered to buy us a drink at the bar. It was at this point that I realized we were being asked to leave the table in a nice way and being bribed by cocktails to do so. Turns out a man and a woman were waiting on our table to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Call me cynical, but my guess is that if my friend and I had been guzzling copious amounts of Dom Perignon, we likely would not have been asked to depart the table.

My friend and I, for the record, did not wish to drink any further, and as we left, we were each given $25 gift cards. A laudable gesture on the restaurant’s part to be sure, but still, I could not quite get over being ushered out the door due to the restaurant’s poor planning of available tables for reservations.

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: B-


By far, the most outstanding place I have been to in months is La Pietra Cucina in Midtown.

Located in the old space vacated by Mid City Kitchen, this restaurant has already been ranked as one of the Top 100 by “Atlanta Magazine” and with good reason.

A plethora of scintillating taste experiences will await you. Chiefly amongst the gastronomy is Mario’s Black Spaghetti. You would figure if someone attaches a person’s name to an entrée, then it must be superlative-worthy, and this piquant dish does not disappoint. I will warn you in advance that you need to have a big glass of water at your disposal, as this one is agreeably spicy. The black spaghetti is served with a hot ground pepper sauce that is brilliantly meshed with calabrese sausage and rock shrimp. It is unlike anything I have ever tasted, and the flavor will explode on your taste buds.

For the weak-hearted, less adventurous types, the tame hand cut pappardelle Bolognese offers an exceptional alternative--and a tremendous bargain--at $16.

I would also recommend feasting on the $20 plate of risotto. Admittedly, I have never been a big fan of this dish—until now. Served with a glazed balsamic vinaigrette, and big enough for a table of four, this is easily the tastiest risotto indulgence I have ever experienced.

Whatever you do, don’t skip out on dessert. The blueberry brown butter tart with lemon gelato is magnificent. Rich, fruity goodness will burst in your mouth in unison with the tasty graham cracker texture.

The service rendered is friendly, knowledgeable, unassuming and efficient.

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: A



COMPLETE GRADES:

BLT Steak:
Food: C
Service: B-
Portions: B+
Ambience/Comfort: B
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: C

Ra:
Food: A-
Service: C
Portions: A
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: B+

Restaurant Eugene:
Food: B+
Service: B+
Portions: C
Ambience/Comfort: A-
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Average to Below Average
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: B

La Pietra Cucina:
Food: A
Service: A
Portions: B+
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Needs improvement
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A

Strip Restaurant Atlantic Station

Hello Everyone!

It's been a while since I posted on here, but I feel compelled not to rate a restaurant, but rather to share an unsettling experience I had recently when I attempted to take my visiting parents out to eat at Strip on a Friday night around 5:30PM. Below is an email I sent to Strip's area manager, Phil Handley:

Dear Mr. Handley and Mr. Sheetz:

Allow me to preface what I'm about to write by saying I am not one of these people who routinely propagates complaint letters.

I have been a Friends Of Tom card member for several years now and enjoy your restaurants tremendously. Since I live at Atlantic Station, I frequent Strip on a fairly regular basis.

Yesterday, I decided to take my parents, who were visiting from out of town, to Strip. We have been there at least four times previously, and we have enjoyed it each time.

However, on this night, as we attempted to enter your restaurant, the burly brusque doorman curtly uttered to my father, "You have to put your hat on the rack." My father, who is a 74 year old life-long Braves fan, had his omnipresent Braves cap on, which he's worn into your restaurant each and every time we've been there previously.

Not "Please, sir, I'm sorry, but we have a no hat policy on the weekends." Instead, "You have to put your hat on the rack."

We were then informed that your Friday and Saturday policy is that no caps of any kind are allowed in the restaurant. Two things that are particularly puzzling about this mandate:

1) Strip is located in a heavily trafficked shopping venue. Most of these shopping outlets are certainly not considered high end by any stretch, so many patrons may not be in more formal attire and may actually be wearing ballcaps.

2) Strip is FAR from a 5 star dining establishment. You do not even have table cloths on your tables, for goodness sake. And furthermore, if hats are so abhorrent to management at this restaurant, then why isn't the policy applicable seven days a week?

Additionally, there is a posted sign that Strip is not responsible for the loss or theft of the hat once it is checked. Thus, my father would not only have to check his hat, but should anyone wish to pilfer his cap, Strip would not be culpable for it.

I proceeded inside and cancelled my reservation. My father, meanwhile, proceeded to tell the aforementioned curt doorman that he believed that I would not be returning to your restaurant anytime soon, and that you would be losing a lot of money as a result. This was received with a chuckle from the "convivial" doorman.

I'd like you to check my card number and see how much money I've not only spent at Strip but also at all of your "Here To Serve Restaurants." Due to the way my father was treated (and I should note he was not dressed poorly despite wearing a Braves hat), you will be losing considerable business. I've passed this information on to my friends, who like me, have no children and excessive disposable income with which we customarily dispense a preponderance of cash in our weekly dining endeavors.

I hope your "no hat" policy on Friday's and Saturday's and your doorman's churlish treatment of my father was worth losing my business and my friends' business. A 74 year old man deserved better treatment, and I will NOT soon forget the acrid taste that was left in my mouth. The only thing you were "Here To Serve" was to serve a ruin to my parents last night in Atlanta.

Sincerely disappointed,
Chris Schulz

AND I'M SURE ALL OF YOU ARE JUST CHOMPING AT THE BIT TO SEE HOW MR. HANDLEY REPLIED:

Dear Mr. Schulz,
Thank you so much for letting me know about your experience. I apologize for the incredibly poor handling of this by our doorman. I am copying Frank Grubbs, owner of Solid Security, on this. Frank, his partner Billy, and Solid Security have been with us for over 7 years and are always interested in improving customer service from the security department.

Please allow me a moment to explain the dress code. While this will give you insight into why the policy is in place it does not excuse the poor communication from the doorman. We have a dress code in place on Friday and Saturday evening because Strip undergoes a transformation from restaurant to restaurant/lounge hybrid sometime in the middle of the evening. This attracts a very diverse clientele. In order to keep the atmosphere upbeat, upscale, and attractive we have a very few items that we do not allow. One of the items is the ball cap. Why, you may ask, are we fixated on a seemingly innocent ball cap? It is because it is a gateway element into less desirable items that are worn by the 20 and 30 something's that patron us on Fridays and Saturdays. The unfortunate thing about a dress code is that you can not allow the people enforcing it to use their discretion. If we were to allow the doormen the ability to pick and choose who could an couldn't come in with a cap we would open ourselves up to cries of discrimination.

This aside, I will be speaking with Frank and Billy regarding the communication skills of our doormen. Typically if someone is resistant to leaving their ball cap on the door a manager will get involved and leave the cap at coat check or in our office. Basically we try to accommodate all diners as best we can. We try to communicate in an inviting, gracious fashion. When we fall short it turns a pretty innocent policy into a problem.

We would truly love to keep you as a friend and patron of Strip. Your choice in where you spend your money is very powerful. We want to present you and your guests with a good, clean, atmosphere. Sometimes this requires rules that on the surface seem absurd. Under the surface they serve a purpose to keep the riff raff at bay and allow you to enjoy an atmosphere populated by like minded people: those looking for a fun, relaxing time with great food and service. If it would help I would gladly extend an apology to your father and the rest of your group. We fell short last night and that is unacceptable.

Frank, Billy, and I will be speaking with the doormen from last night as well as the entire security staff regarding how they communicate the policies of our establishment. Thank you for your time.

Kindest regards,
Phil Handley
General Manager- Strip
Area Director- Here to Serve

NOW FOLKS, HERE'S MY TAKE ON ALL OF THIS:

I think we all know what Mr. Handley is trying to say without really saying. Go down to Atlantic Station on any given weekend, and look at the demographic of the people frequenting the area. However, just because someone has a ballcap on does not mean this is a "gateway into less desirable items that are worn by 20 and 30 something's." In fact, what if someone is not wearing a ballcap but instead has pants sagging below their underwear? Is that person welcome at Strip? There's no policy for that as best as I can ascertain. Is someone with a ballcap more shabbily dressed than someone without a hat but pants dipping below the buttocks?

Come on, Mr. Handley! Let's be real here. You're never going to entirely keep out of your restaurant what you claim to be doing by banning hats on the weekends. And besides, if someone does wear a ballcap to your restaurant after 5:30PM, how can you honestly say that person potentially could be "the gateway to undesirable items"? Dress that includes baggy jeans, Timberland boots, and gold chains---is there a policy for that? Gold chains okay but ballcaps not okay? Where does it stop, Mr. Handley? R&B singer Ne-Yo has noted before that he is a big fan of your restaurant. He's known for wearing hats as often as Republicans rip the new health care bill. Would you honestly deny Ne-Yo entrance into your restaurant?

Folks, I for one am boycotting Here To Serve Restaurants. You can decide to do what you choose. But some people might find Mr. Handley's response borderline offensive. Only he knows what he was trying to say. You can judge for yourself.

At the very least, as an area director at Here To Serve Restaurants, he could have offered a free meal for my parents. I saw nary a mention of that. Did you?

In case you'd like the list of restaurants that fall under this group, here's their website: www.h2sr.com.

HAPPY BOYCOTTING!

PARK's EDGE

Perhaps more so than ever during these tumultuous economic times, new restaurants must not only be good, but they essentially must captivate diners enough to return and spread the word.

On a recent trip to Park’s Edge, consider it mission accomplished.

Park’s Edge is the inaugural full scale restaurant venture for Richard Wadlington, who touts his eatery as “Inman Park’s best kept secret.” Chances are its accomplishments will not be clandestine much longer.

Housed in the space that used to occupy Pacific Kitchen Restaurant until December 31^st of this past year, Park’s Edge is a delightfully charming and cozy establishment. The staff here certainly gets the notion that word of mouth will make or break this restaurant, considering it is somewhat off the beaten path on Highland Avenue in the Inman Park area.

Upon entering the restaurant, I was actually greeted cordially by Mr. Wadlington himself, who is clearly pouring himself into his restaurant endeavor. Shortly thereafter, I was offered a drink by the convivial young lady, Deborah, who would end up being my waitress for the evening. The greetings were not at all contrived or perfunctory, and I felt very much appreciated for choosing to dine at this new establishment. You get the feeling if you showed up more often, it could be a place “where everyone knows your name.”

But would the food be any good? Deborah assured me everything was fantastic, but was this cogent testimony or merely grandiose drivel?

After my dining friend had arrived, the first order of business was ordering appetizers, some of which looked quite enticing. The calamari and hummus were the selections of choice on this evening.

The fried calamari in a chili sauce and wasabi aioli was excellent, albeit a bit different taste-wise than customary calamari offerings at other restaurants. Aioli, in case you are unfamiliar, is a garlic-flavored mayonnaise usually served with fish and seafood. The chili sauce glaze actually had a slight sweetness to it, which complemented the saltier, sharper wasabi aioli taste effectively.

The hummus, on the other hand, was forgettable. There have been only a handful of places I’ve visited where the hummus actually burst into flavorful, slightly piquant spreads, but this wasn’t one of them. I cannot quite pinpoint exactly what this tasted like, but it didn’t leave me wanting for more, and much of it was left over as the entrees arrived.

My pick for the evening was the jumbo shrimp and grits. The moniker, “jumbo” was certainly apropos to describe it. Served with Monterey cheese grits, this dish was an absolute winner. Upon its arrival, it didn’t appear to be all that filling, but as you dive in, you find yourself becoming quite stuffed rapidly.

My friend opts for the pan-seared snapper, served with grilled shrimp in a tomato black olive vinaigrette sauce and vegetables. Another succulent selection to be sure, brimming with excellent flavor.

Disappointment abounded as I became too full, and my friend was unwilling to share dessert, with a multiplicity of inviting options like cheesecake, molten lava cake, and a baked blueberry tart of sorts (served warm), which actually would have been my choice.

Ambience wise, this is a converted elegant but comfortable house, but the tables were spaced adequately enough, though there are a few in a row to the side, which potentially could be too close. As you folks know from reading my blog, I call these tables “restaurant row”, and unfortunately, are all too common in restaurants these days. However, on this night and time, no one was seated next to me so it became a non-issue.

Considerable options for the lactose intolerant including the aforementioned snapper, as well as the tofu stir fry, pan-seared duck, grilled lamb loin, and swordfish. Additionally, there are dishes where you could substitute mashed potatoes to avoid the dairy.

Vegetarians can go for very little by way of entrees, except for the tofu stir fry I mentioned earlier and a few salads and appetizers.

I would definitely go back to Park’s Edge and have encouraged my friends to try it as well. If the attentive, friendly, and laid-back service was done to garner my recommendation, then Deborah and the staff succeeded and then some. My guess is, however, that the gregarious nature of the employees was quite genuine.

A bit hard to determine the diversity of the dining patrons, as only an exiguous amount of folks were there at the time, but judging from the African-American owner, coupled with the talented chef, Jorge Pacheco, my guess is they will draw an eclectic clientele.

My hope is this restaurant will survive during this difficult economy. When a staff can make you wish the food is good ahead of time due to their enchanting personalities (and then can actually deliver a wonderful meal), you really want to root for their success.

Food: B+

Service: A+

Portions: B+

Entrée Prices: Range from $17-$27 with most around $17-$19

Ambience/Comfort: A-

Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Unable to evaluate

Vegetarian Options: Limited

Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes

OVERALL GRADE: B+

FINAL COMMENT: Plug the location into your GPS because if you Mapquest, as I did, you’ll get lost! But by all means, no matter how you plan to get there, just get there.

The Palm

One of my all-time favorite movies is “Broadcast News.” If you’ve seen it, you’ll no doubt remember the scene where Albert Brooks is chastising Holly Hunter for her poor choice in men (William Hurt), asserting that Hurt, “Just coasts along—flash over substance.”

Restaurants also have a propensity to do this on occasion, especially in Atlanta where often style is more celebrated than substance. If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you know that restaurants of this ilk fare miserably and usually incur my wrath. After all, you’re going out to eat to be satisfied with your meal, not just to look cute, don’t you? Right? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

You get my drift.

The Palm, a glam steakhouse chain for the ostentatious, reminds me of the principle Brooks outlines to Hunter in the movie.

Yet, there’s a myriad of paradoxical pairings at this Buckhead establishment. For one thing, it’s upscale dining but in a room full of garish celebrity caricatures splattered on the wall, who all supposedly have dined at this chain. “I’ll be back,” says Governator Schwarzenegger’s drawing on the wall.

Another example is the wait staff, most of whom are formal, yet delightfully congenial and welcoming. I feel almost torn marginalizing The Palm just because of how friendly these people were.

However, plain and simple, most of the food just doesn’t deliver on any level.

It started with the calamari, which, in a nutshell, was utterly bland. Even the marinara couldn’t resuscitate how unappetizing and devoid of taste this was. It simply tasted like, well, fried nothingness.

Then, the aforementioned convivial wait staff sent out a complimentary onion strings and cottage fries appetizer, since this was my first time at the restaurant. Apparently, it was battered in the same drab breading as the calamari, as the coating was really all you could taste. Onion strings where you can’t detect the onion? The more I munched, the less I enjoyed and the more I could feel my arteries clogging from the overpowering unsavory fried mess. One positive thing I could say---the portions were quite large, but again, with a dearth of taste, I wouldn’t have needed a ¼ of size.

The coup de grace came in the form of the $37 a la carte 9 ounce filet, which was served moderately tepid. The Terminator would not have been back had he eaten this. Apparently, my steak had been sitting while my friend’s lamb was being cooked. I will say his lamb was prepared superbly and easily the best dish I tasted all night, even though I’ll admit I’ve historically not been a gigantic lamb fan. It was served hot, as I had wished my steak had been...

Yes, back to my steak. This filet, lauded by our waiter effusively as the best in the city when I noted I had tried all of the other steakhouses in Atlanta, was woefully ineffectual. Aside from the temperature, it just didn’t burst with the sapidity you’d expect from USDA Prime. I’ve enjoyed USDA Choice better than what I was served here. With the price tag almost doubled what USDA choice would cost, you can imagine my disappointment.

The side dishes were spinach and hand cut fries. The former was acceptable and the latter was quite good actually.

Dessert, in the form of key lime pie, was the most appetizing part of the evening, though I can’t ever recall a restaurant seriously maiming key lime pie, can you? I must heap some praise on The Palm here, though, in that the portion size was quite substantial. It was at this point that I thought maybe I should have skipped the whole dinner thing and just proceeded directly to dessert. Would have saved me about $75.

Patrons wise, despite its Buckhead location, the restaurant was surprisingly diverse on my visit, though you’ll no doubt have to encounter a plethora of the stodgy supercilious folk. Just ignore them. I always do.

Plenty of options for the lactose intolerant including lobster, lamb, chicken, and pork chops. Vegetarians of the world will struggle, not surprisingly, since this is a steakhouse, but there are several salads and a pasta dish which will fit the bill.

I’ll leave open the possibility of redemption with the Nova Scotia lobster, which I did not try, but was touted as one of the house’s specialty by our waiter. However, keep in mind, he also sang the praises of the steak, too, so his credibility was in a tenuous place from my vantage point. In light of the fact the disappointing steak was already close to $40, I’m not sure I’d be willing in the future to sink the budget even further with the prodigious price tag attached to the lobster.

As you can tell, the restaurant elicited a great deal of ambivalence on my part---wowed by the inviting staff but underwhelmed by the quality of the food. Amazing really considering the crowd to which this restaurant appeals. I certainly do not consider myself to have an aristocratic palate, but if my meal on this evening was not an anomaly, I’m thoroughly confounded as to how this restaurant could possibly please the Buckhead upper echelon? Yet, somehow, I must be in the minority or perhaps stumbled into a rough night in the kitchen.

If I were to ever to return, I guess my best bet would likely be to try the lobster or the lamb. Frankly, however, if I’m going to drop this kind of money, I’d rather not take any more chances.

Food: C (The lamb buoyed the grade.)
Service: A
Portions: A
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: C
FINAL COMMENT: Did I mention the wait staff? Man, those people were sublime!

Legal Sea Foods

Faneuil Hall, Quincy Market, Cheers, The Commons, The Garden, The Prudential Center, Fenway Park, Tom Brady, clam chowder.

Perhaps Legal Sea Foods---a recently-opened, Boston-based restaurant chain---doesn’t belong in such august company as the aforementioned New England staples, but it’s certainly a welcomed addition to the developing Luckie Street district near Centennial Park.

Conveniently nestled across the street from the Aquarium and adjacent to the Hilton Garden Inn, this chic, vibrant restaurant is already drawing crowds looking to recapture some New England flavor without leaving Atlanta.

In a city with a dearth of exceptional seafood restaurants (though Atlanta Fish Market is a notable exception), Legal Sea Foods may have found a permanent home in Dixie.

Don’t be fooled though. This isn’t a glorified Red Lobster.

In fact, you’ll be hard-pressed to leave without forking over at least $25 per person, excluding drinks, tax, and tip---with only a handful of entrees under $20. Then again, you aren’t coming here to be economical, and the swank surroundings and cozy dining room set the stage for a memorable night out in the heart of Atlanta.

Start out with the clam chowder. This is one of the specialties. If a restaurant can’t do this right, it shouldn’t be within 500 miles of Boston. This one can, however, and superbly, I might add. In fact, I was scraping the microscopic remnants of the delectable cream broth as best I could.

On this night, which was for a birthday celebration, I order the special consisting of 1 ¼ pound lobster, served with the delicious chowder, two sides, and cheesecake.

The lobster I choose is stuffed with shrimp and scallop buttery stuffing. Your mouth is already salivating, isn’t it? Unfortunately, it tastes less remarkable than it sounds. Lobster, by its nature, is somewhat chewy, but this poor crustacean had been obliterated way too long in the boiling pot of water, to the point of being dry and tough.

The two sides, however, were excellent. The cheddar cheese grits are fantastic, not at all resembling a gooey mess which many restaurants fall victim to on occasion. The onion strings, similarly, are fried with the optimal amount of bread crumb coating. They are tasty and delicious.

The birthday boy accepts the waiter’s recommendation and selects the double stuffed baked shrimp. Mouth watering again? This time the restaurant delivers large, savory chunks of seafood heaven, which are clearly one of the best items on the menu. Despite only being four in number, they were massive enough that the birthday boy had to take food home.

Dessert is your prototypical cheesecake---neither noteworthy nor unappetizing---but leaning slightly toward the former than the latter.

True vegans will suffer, though there is one entrée which addresses those individuals by noting “Vegan friendly.” That would be Thai coconut, curry veg box---which comes replete with stir-fried vegetables, cashews, tofu, and brown rice. A few salad appetizers fit the bill as well.

Options abound for the lactose intolerant of the world, including fried clams, swordfish, crab legs, crab cakes, and salmon. There are also three pricey surf and turf selections as well.

Our server was most affable, providing just the right amount of attention without becoming overbearing.

Based on its location and its proximity to major Atlanta tourist attractions, diversity thrives at this restaurant.

I do have to promulgate a big “thumbs down” to the woman I spoke to when I called the restaurant ahead of time to inquire about a special dessert for the birthday boy. Any restaurant, especially during a recession, should be far more accommodating than a patronizingly dismissive, “No, we don’t anything special, but we will write ‘Happy Birthday’” on a plate for you.” Really? How generous. Will you blow out the candles for us, too, if we bring a cake?

But I digress.

Judging from the completely filled dining room on a Saturday night roughly around 7PM, one would have to assume Legal Sea Foods will make it, even during this rough economy. The question is how many of the tourists and locals would keep coming back?

Time will tell.

I wouldn’t necessarily rush back, but I did like Legal Sea Foods enough to recommend it to a few people who crave seafood options in landlocked Atlanta.

Food: B+
Service: B (It would have been an A if a special birthday dessert had been provided like 99% of Atlanta area restaurants do.)
Portions: A-
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: B+
FINAL COMMENT: A worthy addition to the area but avoid the stuffed lobster, and by all means, don’t go for a birthday celebration unless you’re bringing a cake!