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Thursday, September 16, 2010

Round Up: The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly

Yes, folks, it has been a while since the last review graced the pages of this blog, and thus, let’s review a multitude of recent restaurant visits in the Atlanta area.

Now one of the questions I’m most often asked is how can I compare, say, Nuevo Laredo Cantina vs. a fine dining establishment? Obviously, it is understood there must be a disparity in terms of the dining experience, and an “A” at one cannot be comparable to an “A” at another.

I couldn’t agree more, and thus, going forward, my reviews will indicate the dining category to clearly delineate an “A” in fine dining vs. an “A” at a casual restaurant.

With that being said, let’s begin my recent tour:

Let’s start with the overhyped---BLT Steak. I cannot seem to ascertain why this is such a ballyhooed restaurant, often mentioned in august company of some of the finest steakhouses in Atlanta.

If you have heard any chatter about this restaurant, chances are you’re familiar with their popovers that are initially brought to the table after ordering. Described as “milk, eggs, flour, salt, and a heap of gruyere cheese” by Meredith Ford Goldman of the “Atlanta Journal Constitution", I’m perplexed at the effusive ravings that these puffs of bread have garnered. Salty cardboard nothingness is the best I can extract from partaking, and that’s being kind.

Strike One.

But this, of course, isn’t why you go to a steakhouse. You go for the mouth-watering USDA Prime decadent beef, and unfortunately, BLT Steak does not deliver there either. I found my steak rather unremarkable actually except the price. It did not provide the inundating flavor I had hoped for, prompting more than the usual shake-shake-shake of the salt bottle.

Strike Two.

The service? Teetering on the precipice of pretentiousness but affable enough to give one pause for being overly critical.

Strike Three. Billy Wagner just recorded another “K.”

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: C (Complete breakdown of rating below)


Next stop---Ra in Midtown. First, accept the fact that this is supposed to be a fun place where many pop in for Happy Hour libations or a quick meal before heading out for a night in Midtown.

The sushi is serviceable, and the chicken teriyaki is both filling and toothsome. By far, though, my favorite item on the menu would be the spicy sesame chicken wings. The sweet and spicy sauce coupled with the succulent glaze accentuate a harmonious crescendo of salinity and sweetness. Absolutely superb!

Keep an eye out for the enticing Happy Hour specials!

A recent poor service experience, however, lowered the overall score of the restaurant, as well as the service grade. When you inquire about the contents of a cocktail, a curt, “It’s described on the drink menu” is not an apropos response.

Dining Category: Casual
Overall Grade: B+ (Complete breakdown of rating below)


Head north on Peachtree for a few miles, and you’ll land at another championed establishment in the form of Restaurant Eugene. This elegant restaurant has received critical praise from dining critics, including a James Beard Award for "2010 Best Chef: Southeast" nomination for Linton Hopkins. Hard to argue when you dig into the pan roasted sockeye salmon. However, here’s my problem--I simply can’t justify paying $36 for a pedestrian in size piece of fish when it is not the best I’ve ever tasted---and it was not.

The lemon cheesecake, however, was superb.

If the measure of a restaurant is whether you would recommend it and hurriedly return, I would do neither with Restaurant Eugene.

Here is what did leave an indelible mark on me. Upon concluding my meal, my friend—who I had not seen in quite some time—and I continued to chat. After about fifteen minutes, the manager on duty (I presume) offered to buy us a drink at the bar. It was at this point that I realized we were being asked to leave the table in a nice way and being bribed by cocktails to do so. Turns out a man and a woman were waiting on our table to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Call me cynical, but my guess is that if my friend and I had been guzzling copious amounts of Dom Perignon, we likely would not have been asked to depart the table.

My friend and I, for the record, did not wish to drink any further, and as we left, we were each given $25 gift cards. A laudable gesture on the restaurant’s part to be sure, but still, I could not quite get over being ushered out the door due to the restaurant’s poor planning of available tables for reservations.

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: B-


By far, the most outstanding place I have been to in months is La Pietra Cucina in Midtown.

Located in the old space vacated by Mid City Kitchen, this restaurant has already been ranked as one of the Top 100 by “Atlanta Magazine” and with good reason.

A plethora of scintillating taste experiences will await you. Chiefly amongst the gastronomy is Mario’s Black Spaghetti. You would figure if someone attaches a person’s name to an entrée, then it must be superlative-worthy, and this piquant dish does not disappoint. I will warn you in advance that you need to have a big glass of water at your disposal, as this one is agreeably spicy. The black spaghetti is served with a hot ground pepper sauce that is brilliantly meshed with calabrese sausage and rock shrimp. It is unlike anything I have ever tasted, and the flavor will explode on your taste buds.

For the weak-hearted, less adventurous types, the tame hand cut pappardelle Bolognese offers an exceptional alternative--and a tremendous bargain--at $16.

I would also recommend feasting on the $20 plate of risotto. Admittedly, I have never been a big fan of this dish—until now. Served with a glazed balsamic vinaigrette, and big enough for a table of four, this is easily the tastiest risotto indulgence I have ever experienced.

Whatever you do, don’t skip out on dessert. The blueberry brown butter tart with lemon gelato is magnificent. Rich, fruity goodness will burst in your mouth in unison with the tasty graham cracker texture.

The service rendered is friendly, knowledgeable, unassuming and efficient.

Dining Category: Fine Dining
Overall Grade: A



COMPLETE GRADES:

BLT Steak:
Food: C
Service: B-
Portions: B+
Ambience/Comfort: B
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: C

Ra:
Food: A-
Service: C
Portions: A
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: B+

Restaurant Eugene:
Food: B+
Service: B+
Portions: C
Ambience/Comfort: A-
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Average to Below Average
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
Overall Grade: B

La Pietra Cucina:
Food: A
Service: A
Portions: B+
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Needs improvement
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A

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