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Sunday, April 27, 2008

Two Urban Licks

My friend, Tre’, is passionate about only a handful of things about Atlanta. He’ll tell you he’s a “West Coast” guy, and chances are you won’t go more than an hour without him referencing his beloved home city of Phoenix in some form or fashion. Did you know Jordin Sparks (2007 American Idol Winner) and Kate Walsh (Addison Montgomery, formerly from “Grey’s Anatomy” and now “Private Practice”) are from Phoenix? Thanks to Tre’, I do now.

However, one aspect of Atlanta, which has generated effusive praise from him, is dining at Two Urban Licks. By his own admission, he eats there just about every week.

It had been some time since I dined at Two Urban, so I was anxious to return, especially since I remembered how fantastic the macaroni and cheese had been previously.

Two Urban Licks, or “Two” as fans like Tre' often refer to it, is under the Concentrics Restaurant Group, which has produced popular hot spots like One Midtown Kitchen, Trois, and Lobby At Twelve. It opened with heavy fanfare in the fall of 2004, and without a reservation on the weekends, you could be looking at a considerable wait.

On this Friday, however, we get in at 5:30, and the restaurant is barely moving at that point. Like so many restaurants in this area of town, it’s some sort of re-made warehouse with high ceilings and “floating fabric chandeliers”, as penned by their website. There’s a courtyard with a retractable roof, which we utilize on this evening for an outdoor dining experience.

The appetizer chosen is the shrimp ravioli---two carbohydrate delights with wild mushrooms, spinach, and grape tomatoes in a lemon beurre blanc sauce. I liked it, but the $12 price tag, in my opinion, was a tad egregious in light of the quantity. I wasn’t complaining out loud though because I had already imbibed on a fantastic vodka/lemon/strawberry cocktail concoction that was hitting its mark!

It was at this point that Tre' noted I shouldn’t blog on this restaurant because he didn’t want me to say anything negative about his “Shangri La” of Atlanta Restaurants. Too late!

For dinner, I go with the pork with the aforementioned previously palate-pleasing macaroni and cheese. I’m pleased to report that the mac and cheese is as fantastic as ever. I don’t know exactly what the folks at Two Urban Licks do to prepare it better than just about anywhere I’ve ever ordered it, but somehow they manage. Other places’ attempts seem just too bland, but the cheese explodes with flavor at Two’s rendition of it.

The pork is tender and juicy, flavored just enough so I don’t have to salt the hell out of it. It was surprisingly filling as well. It’s one of those dishes that just sort of sneaks up on you in terms of getting full, because it doesn’t appear to be all that large when served.

The big ass burger---and yes, that’s what it’s called---is not an embellishment. Juicy, seasoned-appropriately, and another excellent choice---and for $14, it better be. I’d also rather have fries with my burger than the onion rings that accompany this one.

And this, I’d have to say, is my biggest gripe with Two Urban. We know burgers shouldn’t be $14. Two ravioli pieces shouldn’t be $12. Yes, you get what you pay for, but a $10-$12 burger should be quality just about anywhere, and Two is certainly not more upscale than your four and five star dining venues.

Dessert is the chocolate banana bread pudding. Sweet and delectable, but again, a $7 price tag here for a portion size slightly smaller than a can of Play-Doh?

Vegetarian options are mostly appetizers. There’s a fried green tomato salad as well as an appetizer branded “pears and pomegranate.” Additionally, there’s a hush puppies plate with blue cheese dressing, several salads, and the aforementioned overpriced shrimp ravioli.

The lactose intolerant of the world can enjoy mahi mahi, tuna, duck, scallops, and short ribs.

As for the wait staff, our server was friendly but non-existent at times. We spent way too much time waiting on the second round of that splendiferous drink I mentioned.

Overall, I liked Two Urban Licks. I wouldn’t hit it as much as Tre’ would, except for that delicious macaroni and cheese, but it’s definitely worth your patronage and a fun night out. Don’t forget that terrific cocktail either!

Food: A-
Service: B-
Portions: B
Ambience/Comfort: B
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: B+
FINAL COMMENT: Maybe slightly overpriced in some regards, but some aspects of the dining experience are quite memorable and definitely worth your time.

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