tomeatery.com

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

HOLIDAY DINING TOUR: Fire Of Brazil/Rosa Mexicano/Buckhead Diner

First of all, let me take an opportunity to wish all of you a Happy New Year!

If you’re like me, you probably gained about 4-5 pounds but enjoyed every minute of it. This was accomplished, in no small part, to three more restaurants for your consideration: Fire Of Brazil, Rosa Mexicano, and The Buckhead Diner.

One of the restaurants that facilitated the packing on of the poundage was Fire Of Brazil, a Brazilian churrascaria, with multiple locations in metro Atlanta.

I’ve dined at other Brazilian steakhouses---most notably Fogo De Chao (not reviewed on my blog as of yet), so I was anxious to see if there were any discernable differences in this type of dining experience.

In case you are unfamiliar with churrascarias, the concept is simple enough---servers, called Gauchos, sashay through the dining area with skewers of a plethora of beef, poultry, lamb, sausages, and pork. As long as your dining card is turned upward to the color of green, these Gauchos will keep cutting you the various cuts you desire.

In theory that is.

After being seated at Fire Of Brazil, the downtown location I might add, my parents and I waited for way too long for the first Gauchos to arrive. When they finally did make an appearance, our plates were finally fully loaded. However, after that first wave was over, I found myself looking around to signal their attention but had difficulties even finding them in the vicinity. This should not happen and, in my experience, usually doesn’t at other Brazilian steakhouses.

The best cut, by far, is the filet mignon. Tender, juicy, and sumptuous to be sure. I wouldn’t have needed anything else honestly as far as the meat goes.

Second best was the Frango, i.e. chicken wrapped in bacon. The bacon really enhances the flavor of the chicken and made this selection worthy of seconds.

If you’re a fan of cheese, the pork with parmesan, called Lombo, is a salient choice. It is bursting with flavor as well.

Some of the other selections, from the sirloin to the garlic rumpsteak, though decent, were not my favorites.

I abstained from the sausages, lamb, and pork ribs. Not my cup of tea on this evening, but if that’s your thing, they did look appetizing. In truth, I’m not a big fan of lamb anyway.

I declined dessert, which I usually do with this type of dining. I usually can’t justify ordering one for myself as I feel like an insatiable glutton anyway when I feast at Brazilian steakhouses.

The price tag that comes with pleasing voracious carnivores at this restaurant is about $39, which is cheaper than some of the other Brazilian steakhouses in the area. However, I also have never found myself waiting for long at those other places either so the superfluous expense may be well worth it actually.

Overall, I enjoyed my dinner at Fire Of Brazil, but Gauchos should be like umpires in baseball. They shouldn’t be noteworthy unless something is wrong. The seemingly brief siesta between servings stuck in my mind almost as much as the food so they were, in fact, noteworthy.

Vegetarian options? You’re in the wrong place by the sheer nature of the restaurant.

Lactose intolerant folks will not have any difficulties, however.

Food: B+
Service: C
Portions: A+
Ambience/Comfort: B+
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: No
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: B
FINAL COMMENT: Improvements to the sirloin and service would tip the scales to an A.

Less than a week later, I found myself at Rosa Mexicano. I should probably point out to our readers that when my parents visit from Indiana, it turns into a first class “Eat-A-Thon.” It’s virtually an all out assault on restaurants in metro Atlanta.

Rosa touts itself as “upscale, authentic Mexican cuisine”, and for my money, it’s the best Mexican food in Atlanta. I assert this with the caveat that I’ve not dined at Nueva Laredo Cantina, for which a few of my friends spout off effusive praise. However, we are talking about a different, more formalized, dining experience at Rosa Mexicano.

Don’t have a heart attack when you see the $12 guacamole appetizer. Just order it and spend the money. You’ll be glad you did. They make it right at your table---with your choice of mild, medium, or hot. I invariably opt for the medium, as there are several accompanying cups of various types of salsas with the guacamole appetizer which would help you further deplete Lake Allatoona. Yes, folks, some of it is that hot so have the pitcher of water and some tissues readily available!

At any rate, this guacamole is terrific---as tasty as you any you’ll find anywhere.

There are many viable dinner options at this fantastic restaurant. The Suizas---two tortillas stuffed with shredded chicken and topped with a tomatillo sauce and queso fresco---are an excellent choice. The Budin de Pollo—tortillas with pulled chicken, Chihuahua cheese, roasted Mexican peppers, and served in a poblano cream sauce---is superior.

On this night, I ordered the Chamorro---pork shank served with mushroom-chipotle creamed spinach and red bean-chorizo chili. The operative word was “shank”, which I obviously ignored, and was somewhat surprised when a huge “turkey leg” looking dish arrived. Despite my initial shock, the pork was tender and fell off the bone quite easily. This would not be a dish I’d go for again, but for tonight, I did enjoy it, and was told by our friendly waitress that it was a popular dish.

Sadly, I had no room whatsoever to sample any of the desserts, which, by description alone, sounded awesome. The cheesecake, filled with baked apple cajeta sauce, would surely have been the landslide choice. However, there’s actually a dessert that’s $18 and serves 2-4 people, and it involves 8 scoops of ice cream, brownies, and a whole bunch of other belt-busting stuff that certainly was intriguing…but not on this night.

Service at Rosa Mexicano is lively and warm. Our waitress, whose name I wish I could remember, was enthusiastic and overflowing with personality.

Vegetarian options include a specialty salad, the aforementioned guacamole, ranchera enchiladas, and the ancho chiles with sautéed spinach, mushrooms, and goat cheese.

Lactose intolerant options, as you might imagine at a Mexican restaurant, are limited, but I’m sure the friendly folks at Rosa would gladly omit cheese from a few of the dishes if requested.

Whether it’s a special occasion or just that guacamole craving, Rosa Mexicano is your best option in Atlantic Station.


Food: A+
Service: A+
Portions: A-
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Some
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Limited
OVERALL GRADE: A
FINAL COMMENT: Don’t be scared off by the higher than usual prices that you’d typically find at a Mexican restaurant because the quality is unsurpassed.


If it’s good enough for Captain Fantastic, it should be good enough for you, right?

The Buckhead Diner has long been an Atlanta institution, patronized by such renowned celebrities as part-time Atlantan Sir Elton John.

The term “diner” is a gigantic misnomer. The swank dining room, filled with many of the pretentious Buckhead elite, belies the diner moniker. You won’t find Mel Sharples, Alice Hiatt, or Florence Jean Castleberry at this place. (I’m dating myself here, and if you got that TV reference, you’re old, too!) And certainly the prices don’t reflect a greasy spoon either!

The menu is comprised of a unique meshing of seafood, steaks, and comfort food. You can find meatloaf and sea bass juxtaposed harmoniously, which might explain why this place has captured Atlanta’s dining foodies for decades.

If you’re hungry, one of my personal faves is the Ashley Farms chicken with mashed potatoes and onion strings. Admittedly, I’m not a big fan of “meat on the bone” type entrees, but in this case, I’ll gladly make an exception. This dish is top-notch, and the chicken is some of the tastiest I’ve consumed anywhere. On this night, my father raves glowingly, once again, about the dish. He tried it this past summer when visiting and now won’t order anything else.

My mother opts for the sautéed Georgia white shrimp, and beams equally. Somehow, I neglected to sample this before she managed to make it disappear.

I went with the rare seared tuna on this night. If you’re not exceptionally hungry, this is the dish for you. Delectable and seasoned to palatable perfection, this entrée was an excellent selection….with one warning. As I said, don’t get this if you’re hungry because it is not an overly filling meal.

The Buckhead Diner’s dessert menu is ladened with all sorts of favorites. From their famous white chocolate banana cream pie to chocolate cake sundae to key lime pie, there really is something for everyone. I will say this---despite the hype of the banana cream pie, it was not as flavorful as I thought it might be. Not banal by any stretch, but not overflowing in sapidity either. Just my two cents. Hey, if you’re tooting your own horn about being famous, you better come with it!!

True vegetarians will have some difficulties here, as almost all of the dishes involve some sort of meat or fish. With the exception of the signature appetizer of potato chips with Maytag blue cheese and a Caesar salad, there’s not a multiplicity of options.

Conversely, lactose intolerant diners will not lack for options at this place.

Service, on this night, was terrific. I’ve been to the Buckhead Diner when it’s been a little too apathetic and stodgy, but it was exceptional on this evening. Since I can’t forget previous dining experiences, I’ll have to downgrade the overall ranking in this category.

If you’ve lived in Atlanta for more than a year and have not visited The Buckhead Diner, you can’t call yourself a true Atlantan. Take your appetite and credit card. It’s not cheap, but you know what---you might see The Rocket Man!


Food: A
Service: B+
Portions: B+
Ambience/Comfort: B+
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: It’s Buckhead. What do you think? Needs improvement
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A-
FINAL COMMENT: As established as this place is, it should take reservations. However, they only offer call ahead seating. Get there early and enjoy!

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