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Thursday, October 14, 2010

Serpas

Perhaps I am dating myself here somewhat, but back in the 1970’s, Carly Simon sparked a mystery when she penned one of her biggest hits, “You’re So Vain.” The song fired an unmistakable salvo at a philandering paramour, presumably of Simon’s. Speculation was rampant for whom the song was written, and theories ran the gamut from former husband James Taylor to Mick Jagger to Warren Beatty.

Well, the Atlanta dining scene has its only little conundrum, albeit not quite as riveting as Simon’s autobiographical rant towards an ex-lover.

Enter Serpas. Is it pronounced SIR’-PUS? Is it SIR-‘PAHZ? Or maybe SIR-‘PUS? No matter who you ask, how many times you inquire, or how convincing the person telling you appears to be---you will likely be as confounded I am as to the truth.

What is unequivocally true, however, is that this restaurant---no matter how you say it---is a magnificent addition to the Atlanta area known as the Old Fourth Ward—just minutes from the King Center.

The staid space, originally a cotton storage factory built in the early 1900’s, is unpretentious and moderately austere. It will not win or be nominated for “Most Romantic Restaurant” in Atlanta. However, my guess is the honor of, “GQ’s One Of The Ten Best New Restaurants in America” is probably infinitely more important to Serpas, the eponymous creation of chef Scott Serpas. Side note: presumably he would know how to pronounce his own name, though his staff apparently does not.

I’ve ventured out to this establishment twice recently, and I have yet to have a meal that was anything less than spectacular. The stuffed chicken breast with goat cheese and basil mashed potatoes is outstanding—an opinion shared by several of my closest friends. Other transcendent dishes include the short ribs, served with a cauliflower cream sauce. Juicy, mouth-watering flavor awaits you. The gigantic pork chop---accompanied with four cheese ravioli, carrots, Vidalia onions, and apple fennel---is a belt buster to be sure---guaranteed to satiate even the most gluttonous in your party.

If you like fish, dive into the crab and mushroom stuffed trout, perched atop of spinach, asparagus, and new potatoes.

Leave your thoughts of boycotting dessert behind for the night and indulge in the delectable cranberry bread pudding, which is utterly sinful. Served warm and with a dollop of ice cream, it’s nirvana in your mouth. Another option is the appetizing fried apple pie, but without a doubt, it pales in comparison to the bread pudding.

You will be hard-pressed to have a bad meal at Serpas, but you also likely will not want to be there for longer than an hour and change. That’s because the metal chairs are some of the most uncomfortable you’ll find anywhere. Bring a pillow to sit on if you are in the company of several slow eaters.

My only other criticism of the place is the infamous “table row” seating in some places. For those unfamiliar with my blog, I reference “table row” when discussing tables for two that are lined up so close together to other adjoining tables that it’s nearly impossible to have a private conversation. Serpas is not as egregious as other restaurants, in that there is a modicum of space between the tables. However, there is certainly room for improvement in distancing to ensure tables for two consist of conversations discernable by only two.

Most any entrée can be adjusted to reduce cheeses and creams for the lactose intolerant, and Serpas also indicates on their menu that vegetarian options are available upon request.

Service, like the décor, is unassuming, unobtrusive and straight-forward. Five minute pedantic lectures on the freshness, preparation methods, and other intricate details of the menu will not have to be endured at Serpas. This is much appreciated, as there is an overabundance of dining establishments in Atlanta that embody this characteristic.

Trust me, you will not walk away hungry or disappointed from this restaurant. Now excuse me while I try to contact Scott Serpas to find out the RIGHT way to say the name of this place.


Dining Category: Casual To Casual Dressy
Food: A+
Service: A
Portions: A-
Entrée Prices: Range from $14-$26 with most around $22
Ambience/Comfort: C (Sorry, the chairs are just too hard to be comfortable)
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A
FINAL COMMENT: In a word—fantastic.