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Friday, February 29, 2008

Dolce Enoteca e Ristorante

Dolce gets it. Or at least it appears that way.

They seemingly understand that good food at higher prices can be transformed into a splendid evening by paying attention to detail, providing outstanding service, and possessing a warm, inviting atmosphere. That hip can be any age, race, gender, or orientation as long as you’re there to relax, let loose, and have fun.

Recently, I hosted a gathering at Dolce for my friend’s 26th birthday. In case you’re unfamiliar with this restaurant, Dolce Enoteca e Ristorante was the creation of the Dolce Restaurant Group, invested in by Ashton Kutcher, some of his former “That 70’s Show” compadres, Dule’ Hill and Jamie Kennedy among others. Based initially in Los Angeles, this restaurant group has replicated Dolce in other cities including Atlanta, Reno, and Huntsville, Alabama. Huntsville? Yep. They’ve also formed The Geisha House, which is also housed in Atlantic Station.

Upon entering Dolce, you’re immediately impressed by its romantic, comfortable ambience. Tables and booths, for the most part, are spaced well enough so that you can have a private, enjoyable evening and not feel crammed or restrained in any way.

On the night of our party, we were treated to Megan, one of Dolce’s convivial wait staff. It became obvious right away that Megan would be able to pace our evening effectively without rushing us, with the precise amount of attention and follow up.

The evening begins with focaccia bread served with salami, a vinaigrette dressing, and ricotta cheese. Nothing like warm carbohydrate heaven with a delectable spread or meat to go on top to start off the evening.

None of us get appetizers, though I’m told the Burrata Platter---with Burrata, prosciutto, and charred tomatoes---is a house favorite. Burrata, in case you are as unfamiliar as I was, is an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. The outer shell is the firm mozzarella, while the inside has both mozzarella and cream, which gives it a softer consistency.

Our entrees arrive, and fortunately, there were enough people ordering different dishes that I was able to sample more than just mine. The first “don’t” at Dolce? Don’t order the linguine with clams. The linguine was unequivocally drab and dry. The clams were tasty, but since most of the entrée is linguine, it needed better flavor and more sauce.

I ordered the pork tenderloin wrapped in Italian bacon. This was a much better selection. The pork, while not terribly moist, was served in enough juice to avoid the “dry” moniker, and the bacon enhanced the salinity and overall palatability of the dish. The accompanying spinach with mushrooms was terrific and plentiful. In fact, I would have been happier with a tad more pork and less spinach, but I enjoyed my choice overall. By the way, I should note the folks at Dolce are most accommodating with substitutions, as this selection is normally served with baby vegetables instead of spinach, but Megan was only too happy to offer other options.

The chicken piccata is fantastic, and believe me, though not difficult to prepare, many restaurants just don’t get it right. However, the chicken was juicy, and the lemon butter sauce was not overly pungent but had just the right amount of kick. Though I’m not a huge fan of risotto, I have to admit the lemon pea risotto that was served was meritorious. Portions wise, this was the dish to get if you have a voracious appetite.

In between our enjoyment of the food was Megan’s illuminating presence, and she managed to bring two rounds of shots for all of us in honor of the birthday boy.

Dessert was the molten lava chocolate cake with one candle for the birthday boy to blow out. I will admit this type of cake is not my favorite, but this one was acceptable enough.

One other note about the dinner---the Clean Slate Riesling is one of the better Rieslings that restaurants offer if you like a sweeter, less bitter taste.

Options abound for the lactose intolerant including the aforementioned pork tenderloin, salmon, ossobucco, spaghetti, lobster tail, flounder, and grouper.

Limited options for vegetarians, but the short list would include wild mushroom ravioli, bruschetta, and several risotto dishes.

Dining at Dolce reminds you of why you want to live in Atlanta and inside the perimeter. It’s lively, fun, friendly, and non-judgmental---where everyone gets along and everyone has a good time. This, in my mind, is what makes the A the great place to live that it is.

The food at Dolce is very good, sans the linguine. The superb wait staff (Megan and Rachel were just two of the beautiful, congenial young women who befriended our table), coupled with the alluring ambience, transcended a highly satisfactory meal into a great one.

I would highly recommend Dolce for a memorable evening out---whether it’s a romantic date or a birthday party or just any special occasion. The birthday boy had a fantastic time, and it was due in no small part to the doting folks at Dolce.

Food: B+
Service: A+
Portions: A-
Ambience/Comfort: A
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Limited
OVERALL GRADE: A-
FINAL COMMENT: Quality service hasn’t died, even as much as we think it has, and the folks at Dolce can prove it!

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Fox Sports Grill--UPDATE ON 4/27

APRIL 27TH UPDATE---For those of you who read the review below some time ago, I have bad news to report. The simply marvelous French toast is no longer, as the Fox Sports Grill has canceled brunch on the weekends. They now only serve lunch and dinner. Everyone join me with a barrage of boos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



When you think of brunch in the metro Atlanta area, chances are a place linked to being a sports bar will not be your first thought. If that is the case, you might be really missing out!

The Fox Sports Grill, a relative neophyte to the Atlanta restaurant scene, opened in 2005 and became a popular hangout on the weekend. While it’s certainly more renowned as a “seen and be seen” type of venue, you might be overlooking one of its stronger suits in my estimation---weekend brunch, which is served Saturday and Sunday.

Now I’ve dined there in the evenings before or during game time, and the food is certainly respectable. Burgers and fries, a la a typical sports bar, are there, but you’ll also find more upscale selections like salmon and steaks. The Hawaiian salmon is a good choice, but not necessarily one you’d make if you were famished as the actual salmon portions are quite small, unless you like copious amounts of rice.

A surprisingly salient option is the sirloin. If you’re a fan of this site, you know steak reviews are my specialty, and I must admit this cut of beef is tender and has good flavor.

However, all of this pales in comparison, in my opinion, to the brunch. The ranch eggs—two eggs with apple-smoked bacon, potatoes, and toast---is a superb choice. However, my personal favorite is the French toast. It’s stuffed with strawberry preserves and dipped in a vanilla-cinnamon crème. It comes with the aforementioned apple-smoked bacon, and folks, this dish is superb. I’ve had some note-worthy French toast in the area (Flying Biscuit, Murphy’s to name a few), but this is the best.

Another plus for going to brunch is you’re not going to be crowded as you would for an afternoon here when there’s a big sporting event on the tube. In fact, despite being an ardent sports fan, I probably wouldn’t opt for the Fox Sports Grill just to watch games due to how packed this place is on the weekends.

Dinner options for vegetarians include wild mushroom pasta and the four cheese ravioli, and there are quite a few selections for lactose-intolerant diners as well. Breakfast items for our non-meat eating and dairy resistant friends include the fantastic French toast, omelettes, and pancakes.

One other note about the restaurant---don’t be in an exceptionally big hurry unless you’re prepared to chase down waiters and waitresses. I’ve eaten at the Fox Sports Grill on about five occasions, and only two of those times did the service, despite being friendly, stay consistent and timely. So take your time!

Food: A for Breakfast. B for Dinner
Service: C+
Portions: B-
Ambience/Comfort: B
Diversity Of The Dining Patrons: Good
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Options for Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: A- for Breakfast, B for Dinner