tomeatery.com

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Maxim Prime

Grandiose. Merriam-Webster defines the word as, “Characterized by affectation of grandeur or by absurd exaggeration.”

This came to mind as I visited the recently opened, highly touted Maxim Prime this past Saturday night.

Maxim Prime gushes on its website, “A casually elegant, playfully innovative dining destination.” It was the concept of world-renowned New York restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow in collaboration with the men’s magazine, “Maxim.”

The result? Glam, glitz, and a cacophony of uproarious neighboring table discussions nestled on a pendulum which swings from “above average to good” meal choices at inflated prices.

And therein lies the problem with Maxim Prime. Trendy “see and be seen” restaurants can function in this arena but not with the benefit of the overblown prices. The New York press has gone so far as to relegate its New York version of Maxim Prime to the ranks of “an upscale Hooters.”

Now I wouldn’t venture into that level of criticism, but suffice it to say this restaurant has work to do to become great.

Let’s start with the ambience. You walk your way up on a spiral staircase, which reveals a dining room beset with high energy, up-tempo music and big screens replete with a showing of what appeared to be “Cirque Du Soleil”-esque in nature. This incongruous mix prompted a, “Huh?” from my table party. The ambient noise on this evening was at a level that required even those with the best hearing to ask your dining companion across the table to loudly speak up.

The waitress arrives, and while appearing vivacious and friendly, I got the feeling Paris Hilton or Kim Kardashian was waiting on me, and there was something perfunctory about her. I was expecting her to say something akin to, “So like our steaks are so, like, awesome, and like, I just can’t even begin to go on, and really, like, you should, like, order one and stuff, and My God, it’s so fabulous.” Perhaps unfair, but that was my impression.

I order the 10 ounce filet, and it arrived medium as I had requested. However, the beef was only moderately above tepid. Taste-wise, it was flavorful, but again, hot USDA prime beef (as opposed to lukewarm) prepared just right bursts with flavor, and this just didn’t have that zing.

The creamed spinach I ordered as a side (everything is a la carte), is a solid choice, but yet, it’s not noticeably better than any I’ve ordered at a plethora of other steakhouses.

My dining companion ventured into a threesome---sort of. Maxim Prime’s “Threesome’s”—their take on the surf and turf concept---come served with meat, seafood, and a side. One of these, the Cuban, is marinated skirt steak with bitter orange, tamarind, and honey, served along side a lobster tail mai tai, and chorizo and scallion plaintain mofongo. The mofongo, or mashed plaintains, was a gobbly unappetizing mess. The steak resembled beef fajita slivers, and the lobster tail would not have filled a toddler. All of this for the asking price of $35?

We decided to forgo dessert, especially since I remembered a local dining critic had penned them, “Remarkably unforgettable.” Considering some of the meal already had lived up to that billing, there was no need to add to the tab, which was already at $133 before tip.

I’m told Maxim Prime has a breath-taking rooftop view where you can order a variety of cocktails and even get a cabana with your friends, should you so choose. This might be the avenue to pursue rather than actually dining there.

True Vegetarians will struggle here, except for a few salads and small plates. The lactose intolerant will fare far better.

I tend to be a bit harsh on restaurants that are behemoths with flash but flat-line on tangible substance, especially when there’s a sizeable price tag to boot. Call me crazy, but if you want to see and be seen by beautiful people, go to an upscale nightclub. But when it comes to dining out, I need something substantive that leaves me feeling satiated.

Maxim Prime isn’t that place.

Food: C+
Service: B
Portions: D+
Ambience/Comfort: B
Diversity Of Dining Patrons: Decent
Vegetarian Options: Limited
Options For Lactose Intolerant: Yes
OVERALL GRADE: C+
FINAL COMMENT: There are plenty of other options in Atlanta if you want flash and substance in a nice, neat little package.